A Tempting Kosher Recipe from Manischewitz, ca. 1930: Asparagus Wheel

Today I have an outrageously delicious recipe for an asparagus and egg casserole from a surprising source: a 1930 promotional cookbook from Manischewitz, entitled Tempting Kosher Dishes.

This sweet little book is bilingual, in English and Yiddish, with an interesting blend of traditional Ashkenazi recipes (Chremsels No. 1–4) and decidedly American ones (Boston [Cream] Pie, Tamales). Naturally, all recipes in Tempting Kosher Dishes feature Manischewitz products, which at the time were limited to white and whole-wheat varieties of matzah, matzah meal and cake meal, matzah farfel, matzah crackers, and a cereal—no red velvet macaroons, alas! All are kosher, and most are kosher for Passover, though there are a few oddities like Macaroni Loaf (kind of like a savory noodle kugel).

I would love to be able to say that this copy of Tempting Kosher Dishes is a beloved family heirloom handed down through the generations. But the reality is I come from possibly the world’s least domestic line of Jewish women—except for my mother, who is a wonderful, if not always enthusiastic, cook [ETA: my mom made me a very complicated sponge cake after reading this post, so I retract my statement about her lack of culinary enthusiasm]—and my mom bought this book on eBay.

I want to take this opportunity to share some fun facts about Manischewitz I learned from Gil Marks. Did you know that the founder of the matzah behemoth was born Dov Behr Abramson, and only became a Manischewitz upon purchasing a dead man’s passport to be able to flee the Russian Empire and this avoid being drafted into the army?

After successfully using said passport to immigrate to Cincinnati, Ohio, where he worked as a ritual slaughterer and peddler, Manischewitz eventually decided to open a small matzah bakery in his basement, matzah being difficult to come by in Cincinnati in the late 1800s. He had intended to produce just a small supply for his family and friends, but as the many pioneers embarking on their westward journeys from Cincinnati got wind of matzah’s rather astounding longevity, they started buying it up as a travel staple.

By 1900, Manischewitz had opened a large, fully automated factory, revolutionizing the matzah business and becoming a national brand.  The company was aggressive in marketing its product, and in an effort to raise brand awareness—and encourage year-round matzah consumption—and one prong of this push was the publication of promotional cookbooks featuring more ways to use matzah, matzah meal, and the like than you probably ever imagined existed. As far as I can tell, these cookbooks were published periodically from the 1920s–1940s.

I have the third edition of Tempting Kosher Dishes, published in 1930 and featuring “250 choice recipes tested and approved in the Manischewitz Experimental Kitchen by Miss F.O. Gahr, B.S., Domestic Science Expert and Graduate in Institutional Management.” At the time of publication, it sold for $1.50. The foreword indicates that the recipes were solicited from Manischewitz customers, and the copyright page includes a call-out for recipe submissions for the next edition, promising to “pay liberally” for those accepted.

I tried this recipe mostly as a historical curiosity. I wasn’t expecting to love it, but that’s what happened! Granted, I made a few tweaks to the original in an effort to accommodate contemporary palates (or at least mine), but the result was incredibly delicious, especially given how simple the recipe is. This is one I’ll definitely be making again, possibly even outside of Passover. As a bonus, arranging the asparagus spears like the spokes of a wheel makes for a stunning presentation.

Asparagus Wheel

2 sheets of matzah

1 ¼ cups vegetable broth

6 eggs

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon matzah meal

Approximately 12 asparagus spears, ends trimmed, halved

1/3 cup grated cheddar, Gruyere, or similar cheese, optional

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Oil an 8-inch round cake pan and dust with matzah meal.

Soak the matzahs for about a minute in the vegetable broth, being careful not to let them disintegrate. Then drain, reserving the broth. Break the matzahs into smaller pieces and arrange to fit into the prepared pan.

Beat the eggs with 1 cup of the reserved vegetable broth and the salt. Spread the egg mixture over the matzahs and sprinkle with the matzah meal. Arrange asparagus on top in a wheel-like ring, alternating the tip pieces with the bottom pieces, and making sure the tips point inward toward the center. Sprinkle with cheese, if using.

Bake about 15 minutes; if you want the cheese extra crunchy broil for an additional 2-4 minutes before removing from the oven. Let sit at least 5 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Sources: Encyclopedia of Jewish Food (Gil Marks, 2010); Tempting Kosher Dishes (The B. Manischewitz Co., 1930)